Comments on: Hacking an industrial sewing machine http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/ afowejfaiwuehfakjnfa Wed, 19 Nov 2008 12:34:13 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.6.3 By: jane clout http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4505 jane clout Tue, 08 Apr 2008 18:03:35 +0000 http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4505 Found this page last night. I was tearing my hair out, making a mess of a storm jib. Breaking threads, speeding and stopped, wiggley stitching. Had to do something. 3/4 horse slipping clutch motor has a huge pulley. Can't get a smaller one tonight - no children, no dogs, so no squishey ball to put under the foot peddle. Aah! Shockcord! Got some! So I've rigged up the springy shockcord as suggested by Diz (thank you so much), and slacked the belt a bit (thank you Jim) did a load of lubricating, adjusted timings...Sail is finished now, just a little smaller where I got rid of the evidence. It worked for me. Bless the web. Jane Found this page last night. I was tearing my hair out, making a mess of a storm jib. Breaking threads, speeding and stopped, wiggley stitching. Had to do something. 3/4 horse slipping clutch motor has a huge pulley. Can’t get a smaller one tonight - no children, no dogs, so no squishey ball to put under the foot peddle. Aah! Shockcord! Got some! So I’ve rigged up the springy shockcord as suggested by Diz (thank you so much), and slacked the belt a bit (thank you Jim) did a load of lubricating, adjusted timings…Sail is finished now, just a little smaller where I got rid of the evidence. It worked for me.

Bless the web.

Jane

]]> By: Austin Back http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4503 Austin Back Sat, 05 Apr 2008 13:15:06 +0000 http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4503 Unicorn Leather Saddlery-Traditional Hand made English Saddlery Great thread, I have learnt a few tips about speed control too! Doing most of my leatherwork by hand and having a old treadle 1930's Singer 45k for 1/2" leather as a back up now and again and various industrial and domestic singers without power for materials like cottons and nylons I upgraded to a new Industrial Yamata PF5318 RRP £1100.00 (you can get them on ebay new for £279.95 GREAT price and very good afterservice and guarantees) to bring me in to the real world as my machines couldn't cope with new equestrian items I have designed and made. They were going in to clinical shock from all the work I was trying to give them. Having not used an industrial electric machine for at least 11 years it was a bit of a shock, as others have said, it's full power or nothing(0 stitches to 2500 in less than one second-wish my motorbike could start as fast as that!) but I do think it's my clutch control and not the machine and will shove foam under the footplate as others have suggested to give it some resistance.Given practice of about a month I am sure I can beat it, thanks to you all for ideas and suggestions. Austin......... Caterham on the Hill Surrey England Unicorn Leather Saddlery-Traditional Hand made English Saddlery
Great thread, I have learnt a few tips about speed control too!
Doing most of my leatherwork by hand and having a old treadle 1930’s Singer 45k for 1/2″ leather as a back up now and again and various industrial and domestic singers without power for materials like cottons and nylons I upgraded to a new Industrial Yamata PF5318 RRP £1100.00 (you can get them on ebay new for £279.95 GREAT price and very good afterservice and guarantees) to bring me in to the real world as my machines couldn’t cope with new equestrian items I have designed and made. They were going in to clinical shock from all the work I was trying to give them.
Having not used an industrial electric machine for at least 11 years it was a bit of a shock, as others have said, it’s full power or nothing(0 stitches to 2500 in less than one second-wish my motorbike could start as fast as that!) but I do think it’s my clutch control and not the machine and will shove foam under the footplate as others have suggested to give it some resistance.Given practice of about a month I am sure I can beat it, thanks to you all for ideas and suggestions.
Austin………
Caterham on the Hill
Surrey
England

]]> By: Susan http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4499 Susan Thu, 27 Mar 2008 00:57:06 +0000 http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4499 I have an "at home" sewing machine and do a lot of craft type sewing, including light upholstry work. My machine is not equiped to handle heavier fabric so I am interested in buying an industrial machine and am looking at the Juki du 1181. One site offered it with either the "standard clutch" or the DC servo motor - why do I want one over the other?????? From what I've read, I'm thinking the servo is what I want. Thanks for any information!! I have an “at home” sewing machine and do a lot of craft type sewing, including light upholstry work. My machine is not equiped to handle heavier fabric so I am interested in buying an industrial machine and am looking at the Juki du 1181. One site offered it with either the “standard clutch” or the DC servo motor - why do I want one over the other?????? From what I’ve read, I’m thinking the servo is what I want. Thanks for any information!!

]]> By: mike http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4398 mike Wed, 30 Jan 2008 15:21:10 +0000 http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4398 Hello. I have tried several of the servo motors that are on the market for industrial machines. The only one that has good control and power a low speeds is the reliable model mentioned above by DuaneB. also changing the drive pulley size will not help much. If you want to do this with pulleys you will need two more pulleys and another belt. You then can fashion a speed reducer. At one time these contraptions were available for purchase from industrial machine suppliers. good luk Hello. I have tried several of the servo motors that are on the market for industrial machines. The only one that has good control and power a low speeds is the reliable model mentioned above by DuaneB. also changing the drive pulley size will not help much. If you want to do this with pulleys you will need two more pulleys and another belt. You then can fashion a speed reducer. At one time these contraptions were available for purchase from industrial machine suppliers. good luk

]]> By: ladyada http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4379 ladyada Sat, 19 Jan 2008 17:37:56 +0000 http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4379 evelyn: im sure its fixable, why dont you post to the http://forums.ladyada.net forums and ill take a look there? (its too difficult to do in post comments :) ) evelyn: im sure its fixable, why dont you post to the http://forums.ladyada.net forums and ill take a look there? (its too difficult to do in post comments :) )

]]> By: Evelyn http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4375 Evelyn Sat, 19 Jan 2008 12:54:32 +0000 http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4375 A little off the subject...Does anyone have any experience with soldering a motherboard for a computer machine? I have a Husqvarna 980 (over 25 years old) which I love. It has stopped working because an electrical connection on the motherboard has broken. I want to solder it back but I have never tried such a thing. The Husqvarna dealer says that it is not worth fixing, but I really love the machine. Any suggestions? A little off the subject…Does anyone have any experience with soldering a motherboard for a computer machine? I have a Husqvarna 980 (over 25 years old) which I love. It has stopped working because an
electrical connection on the motherboard has broken. I want to solder it back but I have never tried such a thing. The Husqvarna dealer says that it is not worth fixing, but I really love the machine. Any suggestions?

]]> By: Jim http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4327 Jim Mon, 26 Nov 2007 15:50:14 +0000 http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4327 Carl.. you can absolutely change out your clutch motor to the 1750 rpm model. I would like to add some comments on the mechanical adjustment of a standard clutch sewing machine motor. Please make sure that the belt tension is not too tight since this will cause the clutch arm to stick. The belt tension is adjusted using the two nuts on the vertical threaded rod at the front of the motor. You should have about 1/2" play in the belt when adjusted correctly. The clutch arm has to move freely. Any mechanical binds in the tredle bar, tredle or the clutch arm itself can also cause control problems. Sometimes lubricating the area where the clutch arm pivots will help. The spring located under the tredle arm with the adjusting nut at the end is for controlling the return pressure on the clutch. After checking to make sure the belt tension is not causing a bind, adjust the return spring pressure as light as possible while still maintaining its ability to return the clutch arm to the highest position when the pedal is released. You should make these adjustments with the motor off. Check for binds by pushing on the tredle or pulling the clutch arm down with your hand and then releasing it. Carl.. you can absolutely change out your clutch motor to the 1750 rpm model.
I would like to add some comments on the mechanical adjustment of a standard clutch sewing machine motor. Please make sure that the belt tension is not too tight since this will cause the clutch arm to stick. The belt tension is adjusted using the two nuts on the vertical threaded rod at the front of the motor. You should have about 1/2″ play in the belt when adjusted correctly. The clutch arm has to move freely. Any mechanical binds in the tredle bar, tredle or the clutch arm itself can also cause control problems. Sometimes lubricating the area where the clutch arm pivots will help. The spring located under the tredle arm with the adjusting nut at the end is for controlling the return pressure on the clutch. After checking to make sure the belt tension is not causing a bind, adjust the return spring pressure as light as possible while still maintaining its ability to return the clutch arm to the highest position when the pedal is released. You should make these adjustments with the motor off. Check for binds by pushing on the tredle or pulling the clutch arm down with your hand and then releasing it.

]]> By: Jon W http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4326 Jon W Thu, 22 Nov 2007 15:52:49 +0000 http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4326 HMX-1/MV-22 Osprey test team in Pax River had a machine just like this one. It was a really nice machine for small work. You use a machine like this, and you will never go to plastic. I'd go with what Duane said, but when I was in, we just used our hands on the pulley as a brake. Crazy, but we did it and did that often. Regards. HMX-1/MV-22 Osprey test team in Pax River had a machine just like this one. It was a really nice machine for small work. You use a machine like this, and you will never go to plastic. I’d go with what Duane said, but when I was in, we just used our hands on the pulley as a brake. Crazy, but we did it and did that often. Regards.

]]> By: carls http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4325 carls Tue, 20 Nov 2007 03:21:21 +0000 http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4325 I bought an old singer 241-11 to repair some sails and make a bimini top for the sailboat. this article is just what i was looking for. my problem is i have a 3450 rpm motor and need to reduce to a 1750 rpm one so i have feed control for the heavy stuff. so i plan to buy an ac clutch motor but one supplier says this is not recomended for single needle machines with 3450rpm motors. why not/ i have to do something because i have no control when motor runs, its just too fast. I bought an old singer 241-11 to repair some sails and make a bimini top for the sailboat. this article is just what i was looking for. my problem is i have a 3450 rpm motor and need to reduce to a 1750 rpm one so i have feed control for the heavy stuff. so i plan to buy an ac clutch motor but one supplier says this is not recomended for single needle machines with 3450rpm motors. why not/ i have to do something because i have no control when motor runs, its just too fast.

]]> By: Diz http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4324 Diz Mon, 19 Nov 2007 15:14:17 +0000 http://www.ladyada.net/rant/2007/11/hacking-an-industrial-sewing-machine/#comment-4324 Along with what DIY Tactical said, you can also string a piece of shock cord from one stand upright, to the treadle and over to the other upright. This acts like a giant return spring and gives you mush better pedal control. Same basic principle as the nerf ball/ foam rubber but with adjustable tension. Along with what DIY Tactical said, you can also string a piece of shock cord from one stand upright, to the treadle and over to the other upright. This acts like a giant return spring and gives you mush better pedal control. Same basic principle as the nerf ball/ foam rubber but with adjustable tension.

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