These instruction assume you purchased the kit or at least the PCB. All parts are through-hole and this should be an easy project, even for a beginner.

Learn how to solder with tons of tutorials!

Don't forget to learn how to use your multimeter too!

There are a few tools that are required for assembly. None of these tools are included. If you don't have them, now would be a good time to borrow or purchase them. They are very very handy whenever assembling/fixing/modifying electronic devices! I provide links to buy them, but of course, you should get them whereever is most convenient/inexpensive. Many of these parts are available in a place like Radio Shack or other (higher quality) DIY electronics stores.

	Soldering iron. One with temperature control and a stand is best. A conical or small 'screwdriver' tip is good, almost all irons come with one of these. A low quality (ahem, $10 model from radioshack) iron may cause more problems than its worth! Do not use a "ColdHeat" soldering iron, they are not suitable for delicate electronics work and can damage the kit (see here) Check out my recommended basic soldering iron and where to buy.
	Solder. Rosin core, 60/40. Good solder is a good thing. Bad solder leads to bridging and cold solder joints which can be tough to find. Check out my recommended basic solder and where to buy.
	Multimeter/Oscilloscope A meter is helpful to check voltages and continuity. Check out my recommended basic multimeter and where to buy.
	Flush/diagonal cutters. Essential for cutting leads close to the PCB. Check out my recommended basic diagonal cutters and where to buy.
	Desoldering tool. If you are prone to incorrectly soldering parts. Check out my recommended basic desoldering tool and where to buy.
	'Handy Hands' with Magnifying Glass. Not absolutely necessary but will make things go much much faster. Check out my recommended basic 3rd hand tool and where to buy.
	Good light. More important than you think.

Check to make sure your kit comes with the following parts.Sometimes we make mistakes so double check everything and email support@adafruit.com if you need replacements!

Picture	Name	Description	Part #	Qty.
	IC1	Microcontroller	ATtiny2313	1
	IC1*	20 Pin Socket	Generic	1
	IC2	1Kbyte EEPROM (25LC08, AT080) or 4K EEPROM (25LC32, AT032)	25LC080	1
	IC2*	8 Pin Socket	Generic	1
	IC3-IC10	Serial to Parallel latch	74HC595	8
	X1	Hall effect sensor	DN6852 or UN1881	1
	S1	Waterproof switch	SKQBAKA010	1
	J2	Programming Header	30310-6002HB	1
		AA battery clips	12BH092	4
	R1	1/4W 5% 10K resistor	Generic	1
	RN1-RN8	10-pin bussed resistor network	Resistor value is the last 3 digits: ~27.0 ohms for yellow, ~33.0 ohms for red, ~56.0 for blue and ~68.0 for green	8
	LED1-LED60	LED	High Brightness LEDs	60
	PCB	Silkscreened PCB	Custom	1

Before you start, if you have blue, green, white or purple LEDs you will have to add a third battery. To do that, purchase 2 more battery clips from Mouser (or if you have a kit they are included). Before you solder them in, you MUST cut the trace identified below. You can cut a trace usinga razor blade, knife, sharp screwdriver, etc. The point is to make sure the printed wire is broken. If you dont cut it properly you will notice the 3rd battery gets REALLY hot when you put it in!

If you are planning to use the kit with BMX/Unicycle/kid's wheels, you'll need to cut down the PCB yourself. You can do this with tin snips (shown), a hacksaw, bandsaw, shear, etc.

When assembling it, just solder all the parts you can. There will be 16 LEDs, 2 ICs and 2 resistor packs left over.

 

	Get your bench set up for soldering.
	Place the PCB in a good board holder
	Place the 4 battery clips in the top two battery positions, as shown. Tack them in place with solder so that when you turn the board over they wont fall out!
	Now turn the board over and solder the outer tabs of the clips first and then resolder the inner tabs. Make sure theres plenty of solder: these connections are not just electrical, they're mechanical too!
	Put in the programming socket, make sure to align the notch with the picture on the PCB. Now turn the PCB over and hold the socket in place while you solder it in.
	Place the large socket as shown. There's a notch in the socket which should line up with the notch in the image of the socket. The notch will help you align the microcontroller chip in properly. Turn the board over and hold the socket in with a finger, tack two corners pins to keep it in place then solder the rest of the pins.
	Solder in the smaller socket just like the larger one.
	Place the 6 top 74HC595 latches in the proper spots, making sure to align the notches on the chip with the notches in the pictures. Tack them in place by soldering two corner pins of each one from the top. Then turn the board over and solder all the pins. Next, do the same with the 2 latches on the reverse side.
	Cut the LEDs from the tape and place the first 30 into the front row. Make sure that the flat side of the LED (pictured to the left) is aligned with the flat side of the LED in the picture. Otherwise the LED will not light up. This is a pretty common mistake so work slowly and carefully. When you place each LED, bend the leads out so that it wont fall out when you turn the board over. Solder the LEDs and clip the leads, either one at a time or all at once, whichever is easiest for you.
	Repeat for the other row of LEDs
	Solder in the 8 9-SIP resistor networks. Make sure you align them correctly: one side of the resistor pack has a dot which corresponds to pin 1 which is marked with an X in the picture on the circuit board.
	Place the one 10K resistor. Bend the leads like with the LEDs and solder it in, then clip the leads off.
	Place the button, which will snap into place. Solder it in.
	Bend the sensor so that the face points out as shown. Since the sensor has to stick out but has short leads, solder it from the top, making sure that the leads don't stick too far through on the other side. See the picture to the left.
	Put the microcontroller in the socket so that the notches match up. The sensor can 'lean' on the microcontroller. If you want, you can use a bit of glue to support it.
	Place the EEPROM in the smaller socket so that the notches line up. You're done!

Now that you're done assembling it, you can test the board to make sure its functioning. Put two good AA batteries into the clips. Whenever the microcontroller gets notice of a 'hard reset' it goes through a little test routine where it lights up all the LEDs in order. If none of the LEDs are lighting up, go back and check to see if you put in any latches, batteries or the microcontroller in backwards. If just a few LEDs arent lighting up, check if they're in backwards.

 

Now go and read the User Manual!

	J1	Programming Header	30310-6002HB	1
	X1	DB-25 male connector w/solder cup connectors		1
	R2-R4	1/4W 5% 1K resistors	Generic	3
	R1	1/4W 5% 47 ohm resistor	Generic	1
		PCB	Custom	1

	Get your soldering iron hot and put the small circuit board in a holder (if you have one)
	Slip the DB-25 socket onto the edge of the PCB so that the pads line up with the solder cups. Now solder all the pads. Make sure you heat both the pad and cup and that they are soldered together, it's easy to not hit both.
	Flip the board over and do the same on the other side.
	Put in the jumper header (make sure the notch matches in the picture) and solder it in.
	Place the resistors in, solder and clip the leads.
	Put the jumper into the header. OK, you're done!

Connect the dongle to the SpokePOV and your computer parallel port to upload images. I bought a 6' parallel-port extention cable to make it easier.

	J1	Programming Header	30310-6002HB	1
	X1	DB-9 female connector w/solder cup connectors		1
	R1-R3	1/4W 5% 1K resistors	Generic	3
	D1-D3	5.1v Zener Diode	Generic	1
		PCB (looks a little different than shown here)	Custom	1

	Get your bench set up for soldering.
	Place and solder in the 3 resistors, they dont have a specific orientation.
	Place and solder in the zener diodes, making sure that you have the black stripe on the diode aligned with the white stripe on the PCB image.
	Place the box header, matching the notch up, and the DB9 connector on the edge of the PCB. Solder both, making sure that you get solder underneath the pins of the DB9.
	Ok you are done!